Sonntag, 3. April 2011

Roots Bloody Roots





Yesterdays bouldering session was a blast, even though I was battleing an oncoming sinusitis. We got rid of the boulder under the one remaining project at the Sidewinder boulder which is finally workable...good team effort. Daffing that one aside was hard work!
I also repeated Roots Bloody Roots twice for lowdown and photos and Rob go the second ascent. We agree that it probably will settle at soft V7...but we´ll see. We´re both tall and the smaller guys had no dice on the shoulder move...

Out to cure my sinusitis!

Donnerstag, 31. März 2011

Earthquakes and climbing...


These days, it seems as if writing about anything supposedly as trivial as climbing rocks is rendered cynical (at least as long as it´s seen as what matters and spins a personal universe), the wake of Japan´s recent earthquake (wait, there was an earthquake in the first place) and its aftermath of nuclear disaster should trouble everybody. Especially the latter should also give rise to a lot of questions, both relatively practical (do we want to rely on nuclear power) and rather abstract and philosophical (what do we live for, is emphathy really felt or rather a substitute for primary concern about oneself´s well being and health).
Living in Germany, I´m as far away from the whole disaster as I can be. Still, even though I´m in a safe spot right now, that doesn´t mean I´m not affected. I have friends in America that will be reached by any radiation sooner than I will. My thoughts are with them. Probably the ammount they´ll get won´t do much harm. I hope and we´ll see. It´s no longer a question we as humankind can address, we can (actually the brave workers can) only mend the consequences and desperately try to minimize (the word in itself is a euphemism in here) the impact. Action is gone and has been replaced by reaction. If action is entirely gone and reaction all that remains, do we live though?

Personally I don´t think so. And there climbing comes in. Or slacklining. Or playing the guitar. While it seems strange, selfish and ignorant to me that I worry about my project being wet from the rain, these days I don´t just do it because I am in project mode. I also do it because I cherish every moment at the crag and at the boulders these days because it allows me to live in the moment, have a time of not being at least subconsciously worried.

Yesterday I was lucky enough to have such a day in near perfection. In the early morning I went to Aschau with a friend of mine and checked out some new boulders...I did a couple of easy FAs in the V0 to V3 range and found, cleaned and to my surprise did a heinous deadpoint V7. After that I decided I wasn´t tired, hiked up to the Big Rocks after having my early afternoon coffee and fired of the FA of the project I had been cleaning the past two weeks.

"I say we're growing every day
Getting stronger in every way
I'll take you to a place where we shall find our
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Rain bring me the strength to get to another day
And all I want to see
Set us free
Why can't you see?
Can't you feel this is real?
I pray we don't need to change our ways to be saved
That all we wanna be"

I called the problem Roots Bloody Roots. Both on account of that I like the song and the lyrics and that it actually took me to my roots. It´s freaking high, I had only one pad and if I had fallen I would have been seriously hurt. I dug deep and did it. Lived in this moment. Topped it out and realized that despite all that´s going on in this world, climbing is my way to live it, with all its beauty and grace, despair and sorrow.

If you climb, climb! If you slackline, slackline. If you´re fortunate enough to be able to do what you want and what makes you happy, do it but at times reflect and be gracious. Don´t take things for granted...or to close with Max Cavelara...

"I pray we don´t need to change our ways to be saved"

Samstag, 26. März 2011

Zellerwand



Just a little update: yesterday brought some nice cragging! Just check above photo of Daniel warming up in the sun and you´ll know! I´m getting in shape (finally) and managed to dispatch some unfinished business I hadn´t tried since coming close last August with Mer belaying me...oh American rock climbing girls...but back to the point: Mad Muff was rebolted by Hub so that the line now climbs the slightly overhanging slab instead of the arete...Hub told me that people used to chicken out into the neighboring warm up dihedral, so he chose to rebolt. The outcome was Mad Muff and that´s a pretty tricky and crimpy/pinchy thing with the crux far up on a small tufa pinch...yes, there is a tufa at Zellerwand...from that tufa it´s a long move to a good pocket, the point where you may start celebrating if you´re sure you´re not gonna blow the mantle at the top...I didn´t!

My mind seems positive again and I seem to have found some balance between send psyche and send pressure.

Out!

Montag, 14. März 2011

Written Finals are Over!



Finally last Thursday, my written finals came to their end with English linguistics...After spending the night in a funny smelling, left aside that, clean hotel/pension in downtown Munich due to railway union strikes I was feeling as low as I could and generally not psyched for any more written exams at all...fortunately psyche came back after some coffee and a nice topic, on which I fared really well (that´s what it felt like, at least). I have to admit, if No. 5 hadn´t been in the examination papers, I might as well have quit that exam right away...of course I wouldn´t have in the end but it would have been some tedious and desperate figuring out hoping for a pass grade if textual linguistics hadn´t been in...but hey, gotta be lucky at times!

In general I have been quite lucky in all my written finals and I´m grateful for that, since I wasn´t made to pay for my rather relaxed lifestyle in the past two years (which I of course greatly enjoyed...) Considering that I started the whole period of finals very blue after my recent relationship break up this turned out better than I had and could have anticipated...

I`m free now! The past weekend brought two days of craggin and things have finally taken a turn into the right direction...I FINALLY sent Super Grass (5.12c/d), a bouldery little bastard of a route I should have done last fall but didn´t as I still haven´t learned to stop putting send pressure on myself as soon as I realize that a climb is within reach...it´s what keeps me from doing a lot of climbs A LOT faster and it will be interesting to see if I can come to a more relaxed state of mind now that the education chapter in my life is largely over...
Yesterday we changed style and went to Zellerwand, where there has been a MAJOR bolting frenzy going on now that the headwall has been tapped! So far there have been about 8 or 9 new routes bolted and they are all pretty sick, enduro things...overhanging and pumpy! The feeling of relief continued and I got really close on another 5.12c, something I wasn´t expecting to happen so fast...it seems as if I´m shifting into gear!

Photos and vids will come soon...Hans shot some footage of the burn prior to my send go of Super Grass and I guess there will be some photos as well soon, especially since I´ll check out some newly discovered boulders tomorrow!

Spring is coming. It´s gonna be an amazing summer, since I saw a yellow butterfly on Saturday morning. It was the first one I saw, so that seals that deal! I´m a firm believer in an old Swedish saying, going as follows: if the first butterfly you see in spring is yellow, it´s gonna be an extraordinary and rad summer...if it´s white...well, be prepared for an average summer...

Out!

Freitag, 25. Februar 2011

Highest of Highs, Lowest of Lows...



Well, the past weeks since my last post have for sure been a whirlwind...Anna and I ended our relationship, something I am slowly coming over in terms of accepting it, even though I personally still think and will continue to do so that we would have been able to bridge the gaps and build upon our shared interests but...in the end, relationships can only last if both partners are convinced that there´s a basis. What am I to do, you can´t force realization upon someone else, which leaves you with accepting as the only possible option. I really regret this and will for some time, but then, life goes on and so does love, hopefully! It was however good to have things settled fast and in time for my exams, since it took a couple of blue days to get my head round to preparing again after our break up conversation.

So far, the exams have been going amazingly well, pedagogics of schooling went pretty damn smooth and German literature was a piece of cake...I wish this would go for German linguistics as well, but hey, you can´t have everything. Overall, things have been good and I´m grateful for that.

I have been quite psyched on skiing the past days, with all my German written finals done and English to come next week, I took some time off, quit preparing for a couple of days and went skiing...good decision! I had a BLAST! Hopefully the forecast holds its promises and some snow is on its way...can´t wait for Tuesday, just got shots at the doc this morning and thus am out of the game until Monday!

Next week will bring my first English finals and then, in due aftermath, hopefully some Frankenjura cragging!

On a sidenote, I was just struck with how small problems such as exams or grades in exams are on a global scale. It is good and actually at times needed to be reminded of this, the Middle East´s recent revolutions and upheavals, culminating in Lybia´s current apocalypse should be a reminder that even though we all face problems each day, we´re still blessed compared to others. Even though my complains about delayed trains and bad weather might seem justified at first glance, it`s, again, at times a lesson in obtaining a proper perspective to not only superficially bear in mind but to actually reflect on how fortunate we are compared to the ones slain, imprisoned, humiliated and tortured in other parts of the world.

Out!

Dienstag, 1. Februar 2011

Recent realizations...

On Sunday we went cragging...not the smartest idea considering it was about -8° celsius and generally foggy and damp but we had high hopes, fueled by a forecast that had sunny somewhere in it. It turned out Zellerwand was not that sunny, in other words foggy as some Conan Doylian marsh, so we decided to make the move to Klobenstein...we hiked up in about a solid foot of snow, got wet, made a fire (man day, yay!, it´s my fire! cave men reminiscence all over) and then actually climbed...that was a day...I for my part climbed two routes...and felt pretty damn done after...the cold is however finally gone and it´s onwards and upwards from this point!

Other important things recently (re-)realized:

-cats are selfish and in the end ruthless bastards! I hereby vow to remain, forever, a dog person!
-gym climbing sucks (except for Bridges!) but is the way to stay in shape...
-food plays an important part when it comes to peoples´ mood!
-I want some good outdoor bouldering with my lil bro asap!

Out!

Dienstag, 25. Januar 2011



Well, besides Heidi, the cross-eyed opossum, not much has happened since that last post that can actually be summarized as entirely positive! Right after my last post, my girl got ill...like I-got-the-flu-ill and we didn´t see each other for a week. Stupid thing, especially with the weather being nice and all. I however got to go to Berchtesgaden for some bouldering which was mainly fun because of the crew involved and not so much due to amazing problems...we got to climb. Case closed. It´s not worth the distance. Sent a V 4, worked a V 7ish travese and a V 9ish roof and found out that after a winter of padded gym bouldering I have to get my head round to falling on pads again...

As soon as my girl had recovered, we saw each other once, contemplated a Zillertal bouldering trip for about 2 hours until Anna all of a sudden panicked thinking of some tests at school comin´ up. Trip canceled, girlfriend departs direction home, desk and books...I departed direction Zellerwand for some sunny cragging! The day turned out to be my last day of climbing for a bit since the following Wednesday, after getting finally enrolled for all of my exams, oral and written, the flu obviously thought it was time to deal a blow of divine justice to me (who had always thought it witty to remark "Oink, Oink" on friends´ fb statuses complaining about being down with pig influnenza).

Saw my doc yesterday! He says I´m about to be cured...that´s what I feel like to, it´s nice to have my feelings and professional judgement conforming with each other...

Winter has returned in full effect with about a foot of snow dump since yesterday morning and the weekened will either bring skiing, climbing or both.