Okay, first of all, I´m not that qualified. I´ve seen a few, spending a year up here working as a teacher but anyway, if someone feels tempted to actually try them - I enjoyed them! Of course I´ve climbed more, those twenty however make the top list. They´re not ordered by difficulty and not ranked, just a very general list. I do think however that my descriptions actually are quite accurate.
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Dumbo / Klinge / 7b : Starting with a fun campus section, this one gets you a little pumped before a first crux on small holds - things get slabby here - leads you to a good shake out. Recompose and climb the final headwall, which is gnarly since you´ll have to pull some small holds. I call that a classic. Oh, the rock quality is amazing and the protection bomber.
Chicken Modul / Klinge / 7b+ : After a serious campus entry, a vertical section on amazing pockets leads to a good shake out. Use it, screwing up the overhanging but easy top part would suck. Actually, the top´s not that easy since you don´t have a lot for your feet. Except a heel hook. Which I´m good at.
Abseitsfalle / Püttlacher Wand / 6c : Obviously uber classic and it deserves to be. Vertical, techy and fingery...and run out! It´s not dangerous but falling before the second bolt has been clipped is not an option. Which is why many people leave it pre - clipped. Which I don´t condone, it´s an easy walk up to that clip (6a max!) and if you´re trying a classic, do it the classic way - or leave it! As soon as the second bolt has been clipped, you´re home free!
Jumanji / Andeltodrom / 7b+ : Short but surprisingly pumpy - and a new school classic. Why? Good pocket moves, steep, good protection and a frustrating crux up high. It´s a tad sharpish but that´s all that can be said against it! You can even out in your draws from the neighboring 6c warm up. The only downside is that you maybe will need to queue up - yap, new school classic!
Knupper Ged.-Weg / Rote Wand / 6b : Old school classic and hard as fuck! It´s just big holds but quite a number of those in a row. You can safely assume you can climb 6b if you can do this one. Almost 30 meters long and quite overhung, this one reminded me of classic enduro routes in France! It´s run out in the beginning - easy section here, you can use the first two bolts of the neighboring 6a to have some extra protection - but well protected on the upper part aka the business section. Full value!
Jonathan / Bandstein / 7a+ : Three stars in the book and I´m writing a description? Well, it makes sense!
The guide doesn´t tell you the following: the first crux comes between the second and the third bolt and if you feel like onsighting this, bring a good belayer. After that it´s pretty much just pumping on okay holds before you get to the ledge after more than 3/4 of the route. Oh well, crux coming up! You can quite easily clip the last bolt but making it past that and to the final chains clip turns out to be quite cruxy after more than 30 metres of pulling.
Beavis & Butthead / Diebesloch / 7b+ : Ultra steep, ultra powerful and more or less pumpy. Oh well, and notoriously wet. If it´s dry, it´s amazing. Too bad it isn´t dry too often!
Kalypso / Loreley / 6c+ : A slightly more obscure crag - with amazing routes! All are pretty run out, pretty much not chalked up and offer an interesting mix of crimpers and pockets. This one´s the best of all of them - imho! I didn´t even try the crag´s 7c+, it was wet and locked like a good opportunity to deck on a ledge, which I´m scared of.
Strohdach / Weissenstein / 7b+ : Uber classic. Polished. Not well protected on the first 6 meters - that´s when you get to clip the first bolt. Bring a strong head or a pad. Or leave the first bolt pre - clipped as I did. From that point onwards, it´s simply put big moves on good holds. Oh well, John Bachar got the FA. Here´s to you, Johnny Rock! RIP!
Rocky´s Home Zone / Lichtenfelser Dach / 7c : Okay, I might be biased. Roofs just rule my world! This one is fun - if it´s dry! Apparently, it seldom is! A three bolt intro leads to a fun and very tension oriented roof boulder on slopey holds. Heelhooks might help - they actually do! Again, I might be biased, since I was the only guy heel hooking on that thing out of three people trying it that day! I was the only one to send though, so I guess I was right! HAH! The top needs some resistance, the last pinch drop knee is a potential heartbreaker...
Saus und Braus / Klinge / 6b+ : Well, another Klinge one...for a reason! This one´s pretty classic since it starts with a fun campus problem, gets you pumped, offers some monos in the middle part and presents you with a mean shut down crux right at the top - I like that pattern! The route´s two neighbors, Bärway to Heaven and Basic Instinct could be on the list as well. Oh Klinge goodness!
Muskelprotz / Stadelhofener Dunkelkammer / 7c : Okay, it´s a traverse. But: it has a route grade and climbs like one, so it makes the list! Steep, good holds, burly moves, pumpy! I like!
Strahlentod / Hintere Stadelhofener Wände / 6b : As good as it gets. Classic! An easy intro, followed by a hard traverse section with the route´s crux hold, a two finger pocket. Pull it and climb to glory! 6bs don´t get better than this!
Käptn ` Nemo / 7a / Jules Verne Wand : Used to be the easy warm up on the wall...quite a good one at that. About 15 meters of 6c climbing take you to a good shake out, from where on you have to climb an overhanging head wall. Clip the chains, look down and be amazed. That´s called a line! Oh, rock and protection are superb.
Woodcocks in Time / Hintere Stadelhofener Wände / 6b+ : Okay, you can deck. Okay, you could find easier 6cs, quite a few actually! So why climb it? Because it´s classic and damn good. It´s not over until you´ve clipped the chains. Routes never are! But this one remains straight in your face. I climbed it slightly wet...this might have contributed, but I had to pull for this one! And damn, it was worth it!
Back to the beginning / Altes Schloß / 7a : This one´s for boulderers...a hard traverse section from the first to the second bolt, from that point on it´s a cruise to the top. That´s what I thought. Turns out I was wrong. I´ve never shook out so much on a 7a! It was the last route of the day but hey...IT FELT HARD!
International Bolt Conspiracy / Rote Wand / 6c : Full Value. Easy intro to a hard vertical section to an amazingly overhung headwall! Long, sustained and what a line! If you want to put in your draws for a flash go, you need to do Knupper Ged.-Weg. Which can be found in the list as well. Yap, two amazing ones right next to each other. That´s called a quality crag!
Blutspur / Diebesloch / 6c+ : Wanna get pumped? Wanna climb a roof? Wanna be fooled by all the comments on climbing.de? Well, it´s not over after the first bolt. It´s about to get hard! I might have missed a few tricks since I onsighted it but that didn´t feel too easy!
Westwand / Rotenstein / 6c : Yap, techy, vertical and fingery can be cool! What does it need to have? Old school protection on bomber glue ins, a few monos and a fun shoulder crux move! Oh, let´s not forget the easy mantle!
Wishing on a Star / Terrarium / 7b : Well, hard as fuck! Maybe because I´m keeping the proposed grade despite it being nonsense but anyway. Pockets in a 45° overhanging shield. Sharp ones. My beta sucks, I have two goes until that damn right hand pocket slices my finger. Oh well...AMAZING!
