Donnerstag, 6. September 2012

Bolting and establishing new lines...

Since 2007 I´ve increasingly been interested in etablishing new lines and routes. I´ve had my go at bolting a couple of times before, bolting a route here and there but things took on momentum when I moved to the foothills of the Alps. Not knowing anybody, nevertheless desperate to climb, I started looking for boulders since the established areas were out of reach since I couldn´t afford a car back then. I found a nice cluster of boulders, established an area so to speak, with problems within my limits or maybe a tad beyond that and had great times, great memories and a lot of fun. The same year, I also established a DWS in Southern France, horribly overgraded it out of fear, numerous falls and no top rope inspection and got really into the whole searching and finding thing. Things in my local boulderring spot took on more pace when I introduced one of my best friends these days to the area. New testpieces got cleaned and done and Tom made an amazing contribution to recleaning a lot of climbs, cleaned and scrubbed a ton of things himself and more thorough than I ever had. I did two of my hardest FAs in the area, Philipp Marlowe SD, only repeated by Tom and Yankee Bayonet, which in my mind still stands as prolly my hardest boulder and which is currently still to see a second ascent. Now things come and go, same goes for motivation. The past years I´ve been increasingly more psyched on routes, still bouldering of course but with changed focus. I talked a lot about getting back to bolting, ordered bolts, checked out walls and then finally got to the job together with a friend of mine. We´ll keep the place secret, the routes secret as of now but I have to say that I´m hooked. We bolted some amazing lines and I was fortunate enough to bolt a line that is on a par with classic enduro pitches in for instance Gorges du Tarn. I also bolted an amazing and hard little bastard of a steep project, 7 bolts and an anchor of a power pinch and pocket fest and am damn proud of it. It will for sure be one of my hardest climbs and the fact that it actually goes, completely fits my prefered style of climbing and is completely natural completes the picture. There will be more to come! We have to take pics, I have to get a Bosch drill, I have to continue...no, I actually don´t have to. I want. And that makes all the difference. Peace!