Dienstag, 14. September 2010

Donnerstag, 26. August 2010

Birthday Poem

Vow to
rise above ignorance
actually think
think thrice before casting the first stone
rather try not to at all
make that effort
accept what you cannot change
but try to change everything else
for the better
cause contention with the status quo
just mysthifies the errors of our ways
speak up
even when you think it will go unheard
someone might be listening
and be relieved
not to be wandering alone
don´t get the impression
that life´s a chore
cause the essence of that grows your life
stale
and stale it is not
as you might know
as you might realize
if you open your eyes
to see
unbiased

Freitag, 20. August 2010

It´s been a long time...




















Well, sometimes things in life are making it hard to catch up with...I have thesis work to do, have enrolled for my finals, have been getting in shape lately and met tons of amazing people in the past months...it´s a shame that the person I like most is leaving in about two weeks but that´s how life is...Nothing to do about it...Mer, I´ll come and visit you next year, and damn, shit will be going down!
Why is it that American rock climbing girls are just totally badass (not afraid to take huge whippers, not afraid to lead, not bitchy about thunderstorms surprising you at the crag, not whining all the time about bolts being spaced...list goes on!) whilst that speciwoman is so hard to come by in here? If somebody feels like answering, hit me up! So after getting to know Mer I took her places (her au-pair family should have done that instead of treating her like a personal servant but that´s another story) and I hope I managed to show her a little bit of Europe! Arco, Zillertal, Franconia, Schleierwasserfall...the list of places we went reads like a sponsored climber´s travel map! About damn right! Gotta live it up!
Anyway, in the end I would rather take her on more trips, show her more places and spend more time with her...but I guess you get the point...there´s nothing I can do.

Samstag, 29. Mai 2010

It´s been a while...







Well, it´s been some time since my last post! I´ve been busy working on my thesis and since I took a turn into a more cultural science direction, my professor felt the need to call me off. Well, that´s how it goes. I have since started to reread my material keeping linguistics a little bit more in mind and things should be on the right track by now, considering that I have a whole week off next week. The weather is shit nasty right now and the forecast not exactly promising, so I should start writing the whole thing by the end of next week at the latest!

Last weekend I spent with my family and got things done! It was a tremendously fun weekened! After an epic train ride I arrived home!
I spent my time climbing and freeriding! On Saturday I took my brother`s big mountain freeride bike for a ride and developed an addiction. I biked everyday, the whole thing peaking with my first visit to the northshore trails and ramps the guys built somewhere in the woods. Without knowing I just speed after my lil bro and all of a sudden I was facing a 5 feet drop! No time to get scared, going at 30 miles per hour! Managed the first two jumps and crashed at the third (confidence or ignorance had disappeared by that!) Didn´t do anything serious to my body though! Psyched!
Rode back with my lil bro and had a pretty awesome time!
The day after we went bouldering at the same spot that I had been to two days prior. Glees is slowly turning into one of my favorites! We had a rad day bouldering and went home all satisfied and a little shook up...the latter because I felt tempted to try a serious highball and took two pretty gnarly falls!

Today we´ll try to get the better of the weather and climb outside, even if last night was a constant downpour of rain! We´ll see!

Donnerstag, 13. Mai 2010

Sonntag, 18. April 2010

New Proj...



My new sweet compression project...very happy to have found something hard close to my home...

Sonntag, 28. März 2010

Some thoughts regarding coaching!

Just read on 8a. nu that an 8 year old kid from New York has done V10 (and did a V11 last year). Now I´m an active part of introducing kids to climbing myself, being a coach for teen teams. As long as kids tend to be of average talent, there are no problems. Just let them play on some easy boulder problems, have them experience the thrill of going for their first lead climb on some steep 5c/5.9, routes that are set in gyms everywhere for that exact purpose and everything is fine.
There is an abundance of positive effects climbing has on a kid´s body. There is core tension excercise as well as cognitive training, there is psychological challenge and mental training in the process of tackling seemingly impossible obstacles.
As soon as the kids are stronger, however, things get trickier however. From my point of view, as a coach you´re responsible for what happens in your training...and it´s aftermath. Climbing gyms have made it possible to reach a level of skill that was and couldn´t be reached (at least that fast) some ten years ago. With training facilities rapidly improving and changing, questions have come up that were not to be addressed ten years ago to the same extend. Kids´ bodies are much more suited for climbing that adults´. Their motoric skills are generally better and they will learn faster.
The point making it difficult however is their still developing skeletal apparatus. The most important point are kids´ joints. Their fingers and the whole skeletal apparatus are still growing, that is moving and morphing. Something still moving and thus still flexible inevitably lacks the stability of the finished "product" and is therefore more vulnerable.
As a coach, I not only have to consider how to prevent immediate injuries like sprains or concussions/distorsions, but I also have to weigh talented kids´ ambitions to get better and their physical limitations. It does not make sense to keep them from everything. There is no physical excercise without strain. The key is to keep the strain manageable. There are some basic rules you must adhere in my opinion. No crimping, no campusing (at least no campus board), increase difficulty by angle rather than hold size...the most important thing however is to teach kids to listen to their bodies. I firmly believe that injuries don´t come out of nothing. There will be signs like slight pains. Kids need to be told to communicate that to their coach. Training can only be managed and monitored by feedback.
Coming back to this little Ashima kid from New York...does sending V10 at that age have be harmful. Not necessarily. It depends on her style of climbing, on her physical disposition, on her genetic disposition.
What I am skeptical to is publishing news like this. This will make ambitioned kids train harder and with less regard to their bodies feedback. It will also make ambitioned parents (beware of those!) disregard their kids well being. I often see parents training their kids in complete ignorance, something that often involves psychological pressure talk. I believe that as soon as kids are forced to climb something is wrong. Sponsors and media attention take away a kid´s freedom of choice.
This shouldn´t be.

Dienstag, 9. März 2010

Back home...

I spent the weekend at "home" in Rhineland Palatine, visiting my family and being there for my dad´s birthday. It was fun! My bros girlfriend Maria from Denmark moved into our house a couple of days ago do get her master´s degree in nuclear medicine in Germany (and to be with my bro) and I gotta say I´m really happy for my brother. Maria is a sweet person and I have seldom seen my brother happier than in the past two years...good for him! I was really psyched to see my dog after his big surgery and was relieved to see him happy and in shape again. Lot´s of walking! In order to remind everybody that it still is winter, the snow came back (1 foot of snow) over night from Friday to Saturday...that meant snow shoveling. I love snow shoveling. I always used to do it when I still lived at the place and it was fun and a bit of reminiscing as well to do it again. Hobos was of course super stoked on the weather, being a mini sized polar bear, he really likes snow!
My dad`s birthday started with me getting rolls the ecologically correct way (that is walking to the village, gosh, I love walking in crisp, clean air) and proceeded with a most amazing dinner cheffed up by my brother. Didn´t like the entree too much but the main dish and the dessert were extraordinary!
I didn´t climb much. Snow and a very low psyche on gym climbing made me take Hobos for a lot of walks which I would have done anyway but prevented any other extraordinary achievements. So I gained quite some weight...
On a side note, I also came to a decision regarding my plans for this year...Ticino over Easter, Gorges du Tarn in the beginning of September and then US...the exact Gorges du Tarn date is a little dependent on the road closure date of Tioga Pass (don´t wanna drive Sonora again) but that´s the plan. Sounds like a jolly good time (and well deserved) after finishing my thesis and psychology exams!
Here are some shots!






Dienstag, 2. März 2010



Hobos is healthy! Yay!

Samstag, 20. Februar 2010

Sharma lecture aftermath

Well, I guess among other things the main reason why you attend a professional climber´s slideshow is that you want to be inspired in some way. Maybe you want to get back in the game and just need a push, maybe you want to refocus, maybe you just want to see nice pictures and maybe, even though that seems a little bit stalker to me, you just want to be in the same room with the person. Due to the fact that I´m straight, the final option is out of commission in my case, at least as long as the slideshow is done by Chris Sharma (who didn´t bring his girlfriend). That leaves inspiration.

Well, I have to say that I´m very psyched on route climbing again after last night. I have also come to terms with 2008, a year I considered largely wasted in terms of climbing.

I was, and there´s not going to be any sugarcoating in this case, just plain overweight in 2008. Not on a general basis but as a climber. But I just wasn´t as psyched on climbing then as I am now. I had put up tons of problems in 2007 and felt drained. I just wanted some chocolate cake! I needed some time to refocus and actually learned a lot more about myself as a climber and about climbing itself that year. Sometimes, failure will teach you better lessons than a win might have, regardless of its size. I finally got my coaching license, refocused and came back psyched for 2009. 2009 brought the Valley, Bishop and the US. Psyche back on, more than ever before. I have grown as a person. For the first time in my life, I think that I have a clear picture of what I want to do this year...not only in terms of climbing.

Psyche is high on routes after last night. I still predominately boulder and train very little endurance. Bouldering always has been playful for me. Route climbing is training. Still, train I will. Route climb I will. It´s not that I´m actually starting to train according to a plan. I don´t want my climbing to be training. If climbing a lot correlates with training, well, that´s the way it is and I like that.
My focus this year is going to be route climbing. Gorges du Tarn, here I come! I have a project and after listening to Sharma talking about bolting I really want to bolt this year! I have been focusing on first ascents of boulder problems for some time...the process of doing first ascents is beyond doubt the most rad thing about climbing. Especially Chris´s Spain pictures got me really psyched on finding some rock and bolt it! There is an abundance of gritty, no-good-to-climb-on rock around, there needs to be some rock that deserves to be cleaned and bolted. Steinplatte is high on my list. A couple of years ago, me and Shorty bolted a pretty visionary line and then forgot about it. I´ll return as soon as the snow has melted!

The show bringing these realizations to the surface obviously made it a success! I guess that some people in the audience were a little disappointed, Chris Sharma is a shy guy and way behind the pros of self marketing like Alex Huber in terms of slide show management and plot scheming. You can almost sense that he still feels a little
awkward speaking in front of a 400 people crowd eying him with admiring eyes. But that´s just what he is. He´s a human being after all. If you listened carefully to what he had to say, there was so much to learn or to agree with.

Queued up like the rest of the bunch. Had my beanie signed. There´s just things you´re supposed to do, if you attend the world´s best climbers slide show...

Out to cure my sinusitis. Weather forecast for tomorrow doesn´t look as good as it looked yesterday any more, still there is hope.

Take care everybody!

Freitag, 19. Februar 2010

Family visit and skiing!

Last weekend, my family, that is, a part of, came to see me and join me in some rad skiing. Loads of fun! My dad and my bro Shorty camped out at my flat for a couple of days and the action was on. We went to Fieberbrunn

www.schneedorado.at

for the first day, just to find out there was a Big Mountain contest going on. Sweet watching the pros do their thing!
We finally found a way into the couloirs, meaning that we have entered a whole new level in Fieberbrunn Big Mountain riding! So many powdery possibilities!
I can still ski! After almost two years of not skiing due to that heinous knee injury I contracted last year, things were pretty dope! I don´t have any stamina and my thighs are on fire after skiing for some 200 metres without taking a break (especially in powder, I last longer on track;) but it was some sick fun! Pics are to come, as soon as I´ve been mailed them.
Sunday wasn´t as good but still very nice. I just like Fieberbrunn a lot better than Steinplatte.
Totally done, Shorty and me headed to the gym to get some climbing on Monday. He crushes! Can´t wait for this spring, there´s gonna be some Frankenjura cragging and that´s gonna be amazing!
Sharma slideshow tonight! I´m very psyched to be able to see this lecture and I have been looking forward to it for days. Chris Sharma is the most influential and visionary sport climber right now (in my understanding) and I´m hoping that tonight is gonna be inspirational. My sinusitis is a lot better today, with enough hydration and some hot lime juice, things might get better right on time for the weekend.
Inspired by my friend Em, who is going to hike the Appalachian Trail this spring/summer I have also been thinking about crossing the Alps hiking the past days. It´s something my dad has been dreaming of for quite some time, so I might break this proposal to him and see how he takes it...

Out!

Freitag, 12. Februar 2010

No US and possibilities...

There will be no US trip...that is, I postponed the trip. The reason is pretty obvious, still it shall remain a matter not made public. Decency is forbidding this, at least following my standards. In the end I asked my good friend Emily for advice and took it. Even though I was incredibly psyched to see her (she is an amazing and inspiring person, if only there were more like her) and her dog Belle, which I love as much as my own dog, it just didn´t make sense.
She will go on a hike of the Appalachian Trail and after checking out some pics, I gotta say, damn, that´s gonna be an amazing hike! Psyched for you Em!

I was also looking forward to seeing Damian and Jeffie (as much as I was looking forward to seeing Em) but things were not meant to be. Right now I have postponed the stay until Sept/Oct, that´s after my exams are over (partly), so this will be some reward for all the chores I´ll have to go through. I guess it will also be something that will cheer me up when I´m fed up with reading through developmental psychology books! I´m planning a roadtrip! Favorite kind of holiday, San Fran to Yosemite to Bishop to RMNP/Mt Evans to Boulder/Co and Amtrak back to San Fran...sounds good, heh?

Not going to the US, I´m already busy planning where to go this spring. Right now, things are looking Ticino, the Swiss/Italian boulder mecca of riverbed bouldering, sun and slopey problems on bomber granite...if the Lowell brothers, Dave Graham and Co go there on a regular basis, things can´t be bad:)

This weekend is gonna bring skiing! First time skiing after nearly two years of break, last year I couldn´t ski at all due to a knee injury inflicted during belaying...tomorrow morning I´ll find out if I can still ski...

Pics to come...

Dienstag, 19. Januar 2010

US zoom in...

I`m making lots and lots of money right now! Thanks to the ongoing sportclimbing boom in Germany (something I have very mixed feelings to) I get to do loads of courses, which of course means that I´ll get a massive paycheck at the end of January! That being, I´ll buy my ticket at the beginning of February...second Cali trip March/April! Can´t believe how psyched I am! There is gonna be loads of fun! I´m gonna see Jeffie, Damian, Emily, Belle and all the great people that made my first stay such a fun time. I can only hope that they will come to Germany sometime, so that I can show them my areas, my place and give back some hospitality. Emily is gonna go on a slackline trip in July/August, something that I really look forward to!
I gotta admit, I´m already plotting and pondering places to show her during her time in Germany. Fortunately I´ll have wheels by then, so I can drive places! That so boosts my possibilities! Northern Italy, Lago di Garda, Verona...all´s within reach...tufa climbing, pasta...ME GUSTA!

Tonight bouldering with Stephan, Phil, Rob, Mascht...damn! Why are there NO/ZERO/NADA/ZIP cute climber girls in Germany??? I´m confused...

Montag, 4. Januar 2010

The more things change...

Well, right now I´m just tired, bored and uninspired. My last post, very upbeat and positive. Well, things took a nasty turn over Christmas. Someone broke his foot during a lead climbing class I was giving on the 26th and 27th! That was a blow. I know that this can happen all the time, I know. It has never happened to me before though, so dealing with this has kept my mind whirling around the past days. Since stress is no good for your immune system, I´m also still battleing that heinous cold/full blown sinusitis that I contracted about three weeks ago. This of course meant: no sking with my dad, no climbing since Dec. the 20th and also no bouldering with my bros right now. All I can do is sit around in our living room, gulp down mega ammounts of water and hope for my medication to seriously kick in.

The lead climbing class accident fortunately went pretty smoothly in its aftermath, so far there hasn´t been a fight with insurance companies, maybe because both S. and his wife E. are incredibly nice and cool about the whole accident and didn´t put a single bit of blame on me... but who know´s what is to come. I have always been a rather worried person, so my tendency is to fear for the worse, which is stupid, I know, but I wish some of my Buddhist calmness would stay in moments when it´s actually needed.

Being at home is fun, admitted, but all I wish for right now is this freaking cold to pass, I so need to climb again. It´s the only thing that takes my mind of whatever is troubling me, so not being able to focus all my frustration on some boulders and therefore channeling the energy into something positive is freaking me out.

Off to the vet with the dog and the cat...rabis shot´s are due...

Out...hopefully my next post will be positive again!