Donnerstag, 31. März 2011

Earthquakes and climbing...


These days, it seems as if writing about anything supposedly as trivial as climbing rocks is rendered cynical (at least as long as it´s seen as what matters and spins a personal universe), the wake of Japan´s recent earthquake (wait, there was an earthquake in the first place) and its aftermath of nuclear disaster should trouble everybody. Especially the latter should also give rise to a lot of questions, both relatively practical (do we want to rely on nuclear power) and rather abstract and philosophical (what do we live for, is emphathy really felt or rather a substitute for primary concern about oneself´s well being and health).
Living in Germany, I´m as far away from the whole disaster as I can be. Still, even though I´m in a safe spot right now, that doesn´t mean I´m not affected. I have friends in America that will be reached by any radiation sooner than I will. My thoughts are with them. Probably the ammount they´ll get won´t do much harm. I hope and we´ll see. It´s no longer a question we as humankind can address, we can (actually the brave workers can) only mend the consequences and desperately try to minimize (the word in itself is a euphemism in here) the impact. Action is gone and has been replaced by reaction. If action is entirely gone and reaction all that remains, do we live though?

Personally I don´t think so. And there climbing comes in. Or slacklining. Or playing the guitar. While it seems strange, selfish and ignorant to me that I worry about my project being wet from the rain, these days I don´t just do it because I am in project mode. I also do it because I cherish every moment at the crag and at the boulders these days because it allows me to live in the moment, have a time of not being at least subconsciously worried.

Yesterday I was lucky enough to have such a day in near perfection. In the early morning I went to Aschau with a friend of mine and checked out some new boulders...I did a couple of easy FAs in the V0 to V3 range and found, cleaned and to my surprise did a heinous deadpoint V7. After that I decided I wasn´t tired, hiked up to the Big Rocks after having my early afternoon coffee and fired of the FA of the project I had been cleaning the past two weeks.

"I say we're growing every day
Getting stronger in every way
I'll take you to a place where we shall find our
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Roots bloody roots
Rain bring me the strength to get to another day
And all I want to see
Set us free
Why can't you see?
Can't you feel this is real?
I pray we don't need to change our ways to be saved
That all we wanna be"

I called the problem Roots Bloody Roots. Both on account of that I like the song and the lyrics and that it actually took me to my roots. It´s freaking high, I had only one pad and if I had fallen I would have been seriously hurt. I dug deep and did it. Lived in this moment. Topped it out and realized that despite all that´s going on in this world, climbing is my way to live it, with all its beauty and grace, despair and sorrow.

If you climb, climb! If you slackline, slackline. If you´re fortunate enough to be able to do what you want and what makes you happy, do it but at times reflect and be gracious. Don´t take things for granted...or to close with Max Cavelara...

"I pray we don´t need to change our ways to be saved"

Samstag, 26. März 2011

Zellerwand



Just a little update: yesterday brought some nice cragging! Just check above photo of Daniel warming up in the sun and you´ll know! I´m getting in shape (finally) and managed to dispatch some unfinished business I hadn´t tried since coming close last August with Mer belaying me...oh American rock climbing girls...but back to the point: Mad Muff was rebolted by Hub so that the line now climbs the slightly overhanging slab instead of the arete...Hub told me that people used to chicken out into the neighboring warm up dihedral, so he chose to rebolt. The outcome was Mad Muff and that´s a pretty tricky and crimpy/pinchy thing with the crux far up on a small tufa pinch...yes, there is a tufa at Zellerwand...from that tufa it´s a long move to a good pocket, the point where you may start celebrating if you´re sure you´re not gonna blow the mantle at the top...I didn´t!

My mind seems positive again and I seem to have found some balance between send psyche and send pressure.

Out!

Montag, 14. März 2011

Written Finals are Over!



Finally last Thursday, my written finals came to their end with English linguistics...After spending the night in a funny smelling, left aside that, clean hotel/pension in downtown Munich due to railway union strikes I was feeling as low as I could and generally not psyched for any more written exams at all...fortunately psyche came back after some coffee and a nice topic, on which I fared really well (that´s what it felt like, at least). I have to admit, if No. 5 hadn´t been in the examination papers, I might as well have quit that exam right away...of course I wouldn´t have in the end but it would have been some tedious and desperate figuring out hoping for a pass grade if textual linguistics hadn´t been in...but hey, gotta be lucky at times!

In general I have been quite lucky in all my written finals and I´m grateful for that, since I wasn´t made to pay for my rather relaxed lifestyle in the past two years (which I of course greatly enjoyed...) Considering that I started the whole period of finals very blue after my recent relationship break up this turned out better than I had and could have anticipated...

I`m free now! The past weekend brought two days of craggin and things have finally taken a turn into the right direction...I FINALLY sent Super Grass (5.12c/d), a bouldery little bastard of a route I should have done last fall but didn´t as I still haven´t learned to stop putting send pressure on myself as soon as I realize that a climb is within reach...it´s what keeps me from doing a lot of climbs A LOT faster and it will be interesting to see if I can come to a more relaxed state of mind now that the education chapter in my life is largely over...
Yesterday we changed style and went to Zellerwand, where there has been a MAJOR bolting frenzy going on now that the headwall has been tapped! So far there have been about 8 or 9 new routes bolted and they are all pretty sick, enduro things...overhanging and pumpy! The feeling of relief continued and I got really close on another 5.12c, something I wasn´t expecting to happen so fast...it seems as if I´m shifting into gear!

Photos and vids will come soon...Hans shot some footage of the burn prior to my send go of Super Grass and I guess there will be some photos as well soon, especially since I´ll check out some newly discovered boulders tomorrow!

Spring is coming. It´s gonna be an amazing summer, since I saw a yellow butterfly on Saturday morning. It was the first one I saw, so that seals that deal! I´m a firm believer in an old Swedish saying, going as follows: if the first butterfly you see in spring is yellow, it´s gonna be an extraordinary and rad summer...if it´s white...well, be prepared for an average summer...

Out!