Dienstag, 21. Juni 2011

Frankenjura...and home!

I´m sitting in my parent´s living room, watching Meriadoc trying very hard to be sound asleep while I´m listening to the rain pouring outside...since I got back from a pretty amazing Frankenjura weekend yesterday in the early morning though, I can´t complain.



The forecast was looking not exactly promising when we left on Saturday morning but since I´ve always been able to get some dry climbing, I had decided to talk the others into going and after some mild persuasion succeeded. We drove up in the rain, as usual it had stopped raining when we arrived and driving up the beautiful Püttlach Valley, the crags on both roadsides revealed dry faces and not a single wet streak. Case closed, it´s on! As I would more or less consider myself a local, I took to guiding the others, showed them one of my favorite little recluses where both hard and well protected easy routes can be found and set to work on a project I had briefly tried in 2009. Putting in the draws, it nearly felt impossible and I was soon to write it off practically, since I´v been focusing on endurance routes for the past months, well, a 10 move 7c might had been a tad too much of cross training. Turns out it wasn´t! I dug really deep, got really savage and pulled it on my third go! I was psyched! Tom did it as well after almost flashing it...we then headed to Marientaler Wand, I hopped on Saftfeld, which spat me off on the last hard move four consecutive times and then climbed Sioux, Wounded Knee and Schlaffsack just for fun. Off to our appartment, shower, roasted chicken and fries, shandy...good night!

Sunday brought some rain, some sun, Hans fired his project, I got shit pumped on Saftfeld and felt somewhat tired...so we headed to Schlossbergwand in order to find some easier routes for Vroni. I had a lot of chocolate, got my second wind and managed to dispatch Invading Celts and Dala, two steep burly roofy quality climbs. The latter came as a surprise, as usual it was a little greasy and when my feet cut on my third go...I kinda wrote it off...but: I got them on again, shook out and cruised to the top! Sweet! I won´t go there again though, the crowds at the place make it a drag! Since we had about three hours left and Tom couldn´t remember whether he had been to Planetarium or not, we headed there...turns out I was the only one with psyche still outweighing hunger, so I hopped on a beauty I had climbed in 2005 and my good friend Hans set his camera to work! So far I have received the two given photos, thanks! Both photographs are copyrighted by Johannes Loidl.