Donnerstag, 22. Dezember 2011

2011

A riotous year comes to an end, filled with the highest of highs and the lowest of lows...from a miserable relationship break up with Anna, the depths of graduation despair to some of the best climbing and travelling in my life...things culminated in my USA bouldering adventure and yesterday my graduation papers finally arrived...it feels so good to have them in my hands...THE FREAKING CHAPTER ENDS! ON TO THE NEXT ONE! Hopefully the new year will bring a new girl, more travelling, great classes and fun teaching the language I love! Above all I just (just is such an inapproriate word here actually) wish for health for all those I love and myself since in the end, that´s the most important thing.
I´ll be staying at my fam´s over Christmas and then make the move back to Bavaria...Here are some of the most meaningful photos of the year...










Samstag, 10. Dezember 2011

Bouldering scales...

I´ve been fortunate enough to climb in a lot of areas and some of them, namely the American ones use the V-scale...I´ve been using Matt Wilder´s and Wills Young´s guidebooks as my main reference of transfering V into Font grades since they both have a good grasp on things...whoever thinks that V4 translates into 6B as some misguided ones do as for instance in the case of Circus Trick at Big Bend simply should go to Europe where the Font scale originates and find out for themselves...
The V-scale operates under the premise that the crux of a V0 problem is equal to the crux of a 6b sport route!

VB-Fb3/4
V0-Fb4
V1-Fb4-5
V2-Fb5-6
V3-Fb6A-6B
V4-Fb6B-6C
V5-Fb6C-7A
V6-Fb7A+
V7-Fb7B
V8-Fb7B+
V9-Fb7C
V10-Fb7C+
V11-Fb8A
V12-Fb8A+
V13-Fb8B
V14-Fb8B+
V15-Fb8C
V16-Fb8C+

It should be noted that in all European areas grades V0-V2 practically don´t exist. A problem like Melchamuas at the Zillertal for instance (currently at V3/6A in the guidebook) would be V0 max. in any US area...FAionists seem to have skipped these grades since obviously the grade is not that glamorous. It´s wrong however since actually some VB and V0 problems I´ve climbed in the US are CONSIDERABLY harder than for instance renowened Zillertal classics such as Schmetterlingsplatte, which checks in at 6B...grades in Europe seem to fit from V5//7A up imho. Just my two cents.

Go figure...in the end it doesn´t matter that much, however some things need to be put into perspective at times.

Out for some bouldering!