.JPG)
Dienstag, 14. September 2010
Donnerstag, 26. August 2010
Birthday Poem
Vow to
rise above ignorance
actually think
think thrice before casting the first stone
rather try not to at all
make that effort
accept what you cannot change
but try to change everything else
for the better
cause contention with the status quo
just mysthifies the errors of our ways
speak up
even when you think it will go unheard
someone might be listening
and be relieved
not to be wandering alone
don´t get the impression
that life´s a chore
cause the essence of that grows your life
stale
and stale it is not
as you might know
as you might realize
if you open your eyes
to see
unbiased
rise above ignorance
actually think
think thrice before casting the first stone
rather try not to at all
make that effort
accept what you cannot change
but try to change everything else
for the better
cause contention with the status quo
just mysthifies the errors of our ways
speak up
even when you think it will go unheard
someone might be listening
and be relieved
not to be wandering alone
don´t get the impression
that life´s a chore
cause the essence of that grows your life
stale
and stale it is not
as you might know
as you might realize
if you open your eyes
to see
unbiased
Freitag, 20. August 2010
It´s been a long time...
Well, sometimes things in life are making it hard to catch up with...I have thesis work to do, have enrolled for my finals, have been getting in shape lately and met tons of amazing people in the past months...it´s a shame that the person I like most is leaving in about two weeks but that´s how life is...Nothing to do about it...Mer, I´ll come and visit you next year, and damn, shit will be going down!
Why is it that American rock climbing girls are just totally badass (not afraid to take huge whippers, not afraid to lead, not bitchy about thunderstorms surprising you at the crag, not whining all the time about bolts being spaced...list goes on!) whilst that speciwoman is so hard to come by in here? If somebody feels like answering, hit me up! So after getting to know Mer I took her places (her au-pair family should have done that instead of treating her like a personal servant but that´s another story) and I hope I managed to show her a little bit of Europe! Arco, Zillertal, Franconia, Schleierwasserfall...the list of places we went reads like a sponsored climber´s travel map! About damn right! Gotta live it up!
Anyway, in the end I would rather take her on more trips, show her more places and spend more time with her...but I guess you get the point...there´s nothing I can do.
Samstag, 29. Mai 2010
It´s been a while...
Well, it´s been some time since my last post! I´ve been busy working on my thesis and since I took a turn into a more cultural science direction, my professor felt the need to call me off. Well, that´s how it goes. I have since started to reread my material keeping linguistics a little bit more in mind and things should be on the right track by now, considering that I have a whole week off next week. The weather is shit nasty right now and the forecast not exactly promising, so I should start writing the whole thing by the end of next week at the latest!
Last weekend I spent with my family and got things done! It was a tremendously fun weekened! After an epic train ride I arrived home!
I spent my time climbing and freeriding! On Saturday I took my brother`s big mountain freeride bike for a ride and developed an addiction. I biked everyday, the whole thing peaking with my first visit to the northshore trails and ramps the guys built somewhere in the woods. Without knowing I just speed after my lil bro and all of a sudden I was facing a 5 feet drop! No time to get scared, going at 30 miles per hour! Managed the first two jumps and crashed at the third (confidence or ignorance had disappeared by that!) Didn´t do anything serious to my body though! Psyched!
Rode back with my lil bro and had a pretty awesome time!
The day after we went bouldering at the same spot that I had been to two days prior. Glees is slowly turning into one of my favorites! We had a rad day bouldering and went home all satisfied and a little shook up...the latter because I felt tempted to try a serious highball and took two pretty gnarly falls!
Today we´ll try to get the better of the weather and climb outside, even if last night was a constant downpour of rain! We´ll see!
Donnerstag, 13. Mai 2010
Sonntag, 18. April 2010
New Proj...
My new sweet compression project...very happy to have found something hard close to my home...
Sonntag, 28. März 2010
Some thoughts regarding coaching!
Just read on 8a. nu that an 8 year old kid from New York has done V10 (and did a V11 last year). Now I´m an active part of introducing kids to climbing myself, being a coach for teen teams. As long as kids tend to be of average talent, there are no problems. Just let them play on some easy boulder problems, have them experience the thrill of going for their first lead climb on some steep 5c/5.9, routes that are set in gyms everywhere for that exact purpose and everything is fine.
There is an abundance of positive effects climbing has on a kid´s body. There is core tension excercise as well as cognitive training, there is psychological challenge and mental training in the process of tackling seemingly impossible obstacles.
As soon as the kids are stronger, however, things get trickier however. From my point of view, as a coach you´re responsible for what happens in your training...and it´s aftermath. Climbing gyms have made it possible to reach a level of skill that was and couldn´t be reached (at least that fast) some ten years ago. With training facilities rapidly improving and changing, questions have come up that were not to be addressed ten years ago to the same extend. Kids´ bodies are much more suited for climbing that adults´. Their motoric skills are generally better and they will learn faster.
The point making it difficult however is their still developing skeletal apparatus. The most important point are kids´ joints. Their fingers and the whole skeletal apparatus are still growing, that is moving and morphing. Something still moving and thus still flexible inevitably lacks the stability of the finished "product" and is therefore more vulnerable.
As a coach, I not only have to consider how to prevent immediate injuries like sprains or concussions/distorsions, but I also have to weigh talented kids´ ambitions to get better and their physical limitations. It does not make sense to keep them from everything. There is no physical excercise without strain. The key is to keep the strain manageable. There are some basic rules you must adhere in my opinion. No crimping, no campusing (at least no campus board), increase difficulty by angle rather than hold size...the most important thing however is to teach kids to listen to their bodies. I firmly believe that injuries don´t come out of nothing. There will be signs like slight pains. Kids need to be told to communicate that to their coach. Training can only be managed and monitored by feedback.
Coming back to this little Ashima kid from New York...does sending V10 at that age have be harmful. Not necessarily. It depends on her style of climbing, on her physical disposition, on her genetic disposition.
What I am skeptical to is publishing news like this. This will make ambitioned kids train harder and with less regard to their bodies feedback. It will also make ambitioned parents (beware of those!) disregard their kids well being. I often see parents training their kids in complete ignorance, something that often involves psychological pressure talk. I believe that as soon as kids are forced to climb something is wrong. Sponsors and media attention take away a kid´s freedom of choice.
This shouldn´t be.
There is an abundance of positive effects climbing has on a kid´s body. There is core tension excercise as well as cognitive training, there is psychological challenge and mental training in the process of tackling seemingly impossible obstacles.
As soon as the kids are stronger, however, things get trickier however. From my point of view, as a coach you´re responsible for what happens in your training...and it´s aftermath. Climbing gyms have made it possible to reach a level of skill that was and couldn´t be reached (at least that fast) some ten years ago. With training facilities rapidly improving and changing, questions have come up that were not to be addressed ten years ago to the same extend. Kids´ bodies are much more suited for climbing that adults´. Their motoric skills are generally better and they will learn faster.
The point making it difficult however is their still developing skeletal apparatus. The most important point are kids´ joints. Their fingers and the whole skeletal apparatus are still growing, that is moving and morphing. Something still moving and thus still flexible inevitably lacks the stability of the finished "product" and is therefore more vulnerable.
As a coach, I not only have to consider how to prevent immediate injuries like sprains or concussions/distorsions, but I also have to weigh talented kids´ ambitions to get better and their physical limitations. It does not make sense to keep them from everything. There is no physical excercise without strain. The key is to keep the strain manageable. There are some basic rules you must adhere in my opinion. No crimping, no campusing (at least no campus board), increase difficulty by angle rather than hold size...the most important thing however is to teach kids to listen to their bodies. I firmly believe that injuries don´t come out of nothing. There will be signs like slight pains. Kids need to be told to communicate that to their coach. Training can only be managed and monitored by feedback.
Coming back to this little Ashima kid from New York...does sending V10 at that age have be harmful. Not necessarily. It depends on her style of climbing, on her physical disposition, on her genetic disposition.
What I am skeptical to is publishing news like this. This will make ambitioned kids train harder and with less regard to their bodies feedback. It will also make ambitioned parents (beware of those!) disregard their kids well being. I often see parents training their kids in complete ignorance, something that often involves psychological pressure talk. I believe that as soon as kids are forced to climb something is wrong. Sponsors and media attention take away a kid´s freedom of choice.
This shouldn´t be.
Abonnieren
Posts (Atom)